Tu sei qui: Portale Italiaplease MEGAzine Style File The Golden Boy
Azioni sul documento

The Golden Boy

creato da Elena Guarneri ultima modifica 20/06/2008 15:11

Indulgence and luxury. The collections shown at Men's Fashion Week in Milan were a heady blend of fur and gold. The question is, who gets to wear the trousers?

fendiWrapped up in an abundance of mink, beaver skin and softest suede, or swathed in voile, embroidery and gold, next season's man is wearing his girlfriend's favourite clothes with dash and panache. And, judging by the peroxide flicks and white blond extensions of last week's shows in Milan, he'll be stealing her hairdresser, too. Even male classics such as ties, double-breasted jackets and tuxedos - making a welcome reappearance - were soaked in seduction as the models slithered and sashayed their way down the catwalk. Stefano Gabbana, of the design duo Dolce and Gabbana, spoke of a 'turning point': "in time men will have the confidence to break from type without losing any of their masculinity - he says - Daring - picking and mixing." Time will tell.

Right now next season's male seems to have lost all of his traditional manliness in a flurry of fur and gold while female fashion appears to be verging on the androgynous as pinstripes, ties, braces and laced-up shoes are must-haves for this spring and summer. Military style is back in fashion for both sexes.

versace Albeit chic and tailored at Jil Sander or glammed up at John Richmond where T-shirts are adorned with rhinestone hammer and sickles. Gone is the era of the 'macho'. This year's “über-model” is more like a romantic public school boy or dandy. Donatella Versace describes her male muse as a Wildean “golden lord”, who's hyper-rich, young and sexy, a mover in the new economy.

cavalliOur 'lord' chooses warm chocolate tones in the evening, champagne by day, beige overcoats with a fresh flower in the buttonhole. And when he wants to run wild and free, like Fendi's "easy rider" or Roberto Cavalli's magnificent centaur, he does so with class (and a healthy bank balance) in cashmere, silk and leather, riding a spectacular jewel-encrusted, fur-covered Ducati motorbike.

Fur is everywhere. Better still if it comes from a protected species. Sheepskin can be seen alongside mink, beaver and suede while from the far north come full-length sealskin coats (Dolce and Gabbana say that a furriers association asked them to use seal skin to help combat overpopulation . . . ), and feet are shod in lizard skin.

Two words sum up the spirit of the season: luxury and indulgence.

Before we go a word on the locations chosen for the season's shows. The ItaliaPlease Oscar for the Most Imaginative Location is shared by Etro (who showed in a supermarket at closing time) and New York Industrie (who chose a huge warehouse decked out with sixty washing machines - all in operation).

Realizzato con Plone

Questo sito è conforme ai seguenti standard: